What can be more of an ultimate adventures in Nepal without indulging right deep into their rich culture? We thought meeting the kumari was the highlight of the day, but wait there’s more. We witness the religious ritual of the burning of the dead and it sealed off a deeper understanding of the Hindu faith.
Sky above, Earth below, Peace within.
Just when we thought our day tour was over, our driver guide brought us to Pashupatinath Temple. While I was a bit hesitant from watching a youtube video prior to our travel about this open air cremations and how it ruined my appetite for a day, I welcomed the idea to closely witness the diverse numbers of beliefs surrounding this religion.
Pashupatinath Temple is a Unesco World Heritage site established in an extensive complex along the extremely sacred Bagmati river. Considered as the oldest temple in Kathmandu and the only funeral place in the neighbouring city. Our Nepal adventure leads us to discover the concurrent life and death within the complex. The temple itself is off limits to non-Hindu but walk further to cross the bridge and you’ll have an spectator view of a traditional Nepali funeral.
While the rancid smell and sanitation issue may be appalling to most visitors of western culture, surprisingly it gives an air of tranquility. Observing it, the deceased body is covered with orange clothing as the males put the body on fumes and which later becomes part of the air we breathe. No women are allowed where the rituals are carried out. I felt a tinge of sadness that somehow, one of us on the viewing steps where a relative to that on the other side, silently sending off the departed from afar.
Around the temple, we realized that in these walls, indeed a circle of life is present. The other side of the river on the viewing steps are rows of shrines or chaityas. Devotees come here to pray for fertility, to bring out new life. While other complex houses the old and dying. It also has several cremation ghats for the royal family and ordinary Nepalis.
As the sun sets, we made our journey further to the ancient Boudhanath, one of the largest Buddhist stupa in the world. Constructions are still on going from the heavy earthquake aftermath, but the area is brimming with devotees, tourists, cafes and souvenir shops. Capping off the night with a nice dinner and a stroll to the night market in Thamel, the backpacking district of Kathmandu.
White Water Rafting in Nepal
Our adventures in Nepal resumed early next day with our white water rafting experience on our way to Pokhara. The road trip consumed our entire day, with a bad weather and bumpy road condition ahead. Passing through the heavily congested Prithvi highway exposes a deeper problem with road side sand quarries, sharp bends and road accidents.
Half way through, we reached the put-in point for Trishuli river rafting. Prepared for our first ever white water rafting experience. We met a group of friends from Dubai who happen to go for a holiday trip too. After the orientation and last minute check of our safety gears, we are ready to go.
The Trishuli river rafting is graded class 3 with normal to challenging rapids. There’s package to choose from half day to 3 days with camping. We only have 2 hours to spare and still we get to experience a thrilling adventure ride to some rough rapids and mostly lazing around the river to admire the scenic valleys.
We stop for lunch at this Restaurant in the middle of nowhere. Actually in the middle of the rice fields while we trek our way and left the inflatable raft down the river. Mind you they have a better version of Adobo Chicken, for the win!
Still high with adrenaline rush, we continued white water rafting at Trishuli river. Not long we’ve seen a suspension bridge built with cables connecting both sides of the valley. That hanging bridge is not really for those who have severe fear of heights. I’m so proud of myself, I’m not that person. haha. At least it’s not a glass bridge, or it will take me forever to crawl to the other side. And the bonus is, the view is stunning with the other side having and endless mountains of lush vegetations.
Our driver guide is already waiting for us with a smile. He’s very friendly, although our communication is really limited with smiling and a very few english words. He always makes sure we are comfortable with the trip.
Off to Pokhara. We arrived after sunset at our hotel just within the city. It’s still drizzling outside but the girls have to eat, right? We found a nice place to satisfy our dinner cravings and where else can we taste a mug of Everest draft beer, but here in the gateway to the Annapurna.
We have an early start the next day supposedly taking a sunrise trek to Sarangkot View Point to see the Himalayas. But alas, the weather is still crazy. And we, among the throng of tourists were drenched in the rain with fog blanketing the entire majestic view of the Himalayas. Nada, nil, nothing for an hour of waiting. We just laugh it off, and made an alternative plans to explore Phewa lake back in Pokhara valley.
We were up to soaking our dismayed spirit in the light rain and rented a small boat to cross Phewa lake. There is an island decorated with park and temple nearby. It could have been a perfectly instagrammable backdrop of snow capped mountains if not for the bad weather. But oh well, we still had fun before leaving Pokhara behind.
We are off to Nagarkot to spend another night in a fancy hotel to hopefully get a good glimpse of Mt. Everest and the mountain scene. Even with the long road ahead, the countryside view offers a great entertainment.
We also have encountered a road side food place along the way which was swarmed by butterflies. It was a magical experience.
And also another hanging bridge happening.
We reached the hotel late night and started our last day with heavy rains pouring again. It could be a sign that we should go back to enjoy Nepal on a full on nice weather.
Our adventures in Nepal may be quick and gloomy but we had fun times and renewed our spirit to face the hectic concrete jungle again.
Amazing photos. The bridge looks terrifying though!
Loved this. The experience, the adventures. Thats what travel is all about!!.
White water rafting looks like so much fun. I love your video. I haven’t been rafting in many many years, but would love to try again. I LOVE bridges. I would definitely be the first one on that suspension bridge to take in the view! Looks like you had a fun and educational experience in Nepal!
I’ll admit, the smell during the funeral would be quite off-putting for me, but for me, honestly, I think that bridge would be way worse! I have a fear of those types of bridges, probably from watching too many cartoons when I was younger of rope bridges snapping in half! haha. The view from it does look stunning though.
Your photo perspectives are very interesting, and tell a good story about the human side of Nepal. I’ve always wanted to visit, just haven’t made it a priority yet!
What a fascinating trip! I think I would have had a similar thought process on the open air cremation. Concern about it being disturbing to watch – but also cultural interest. And I love your photography – the boats on the shore are my favorite. <3
Really love your pictures, the butterflies just amazing
That first picture with the pink and orange sun is gorgeous!
I can understand how the funeral can be off putting for many people not used to that custom. I think it would be a great spiritual thing to witness though. I also like the historic cultural aspect of it.
White water rafting is one of my favorite water sports!
It must have been a very special experience to witness the cremation! Loved your photos and the lighting! I was actually planning to go to Nepal next month, but ended up going to Bhutan instead. But next time :-)
Your photos are beautiful! It is a shame you didn’t get to see a view of the Himalayas from that day trek, but it seems like you had plenty of other adventures to make up for it. And you’re very brave to take photos on those suspension bridges – they scared the hell out of me when I was trekking in Nepal!
WHat an intense mix of experiences. I find cremation darkly fascinating and so I would have been quite sad to be sent to the other side of the river. Were you scared for the rafting?
I would absolutely love to go to Nepal. I think there are just so many interesting and confronting things to do there, such as the cremation you saw. Thanks for the article.
Nepal looks INCREDIBLE! Love your pictures, they make me want to visit even more.
The Phewa lake looks so peaceful. It must be special to witness a cremation ceremony
What an incredible adventure. I love learning about other cultures. I saw a cremation ceremony in India. Crazy fascinating! Great photos too!!!
Amazing experience and great photos. I’m ashamed to admit Nepal is never on my radar when thinking of where to go as I just associate it with walking or climbing. You changed my mind.
This post took me right back to Nepal. I visited before the earthquake and I’m heartbroken that the effects of that calamity still remain. I agree there is a certain mysticism about Pashupatinath- a certain tranquility to facing the fact of death devoid of emotion. I also loved Bodhanath and stayed there for four nights on my visit.